The Best Approach Shoes: Tested

If we drew a Venn diagram depicting support, comfort and climbing prowess, the La Sportiva TX4 would fall right into the centered sweet spot. Plus, it's a REI Co-op Editors' Choice Award winner. Unlike other shoes, the upper completely wraps around the midsole, helping increase stability on uneven terrain. But thanks to the compression-molded EVA foam midsole, the TX4 bucks the plywood-stiff feeling common in approach shoes and instead offers a cushioned ride that rivals standard hiking boots. A plush ankle collar adds to the overall comfort, while the solid Vibram® Megagrip outsole (one of the brand's stickiest compounds) makes the shoe worthy of a rock wall. "The TX4s are bold and solid; they really shine while climbing slabs," said one New Hampshire-based tester after five pitches near Webster Cliff.

Protection is also quite bold. The nubuck leather upper wraps around the entire foot, easily brushing off jagged rocks and brambles. A rubber rand encircles the shoe for more armor, and a beefier toe bumper offers protection for your toes when edging. Trade-off: Without any mesh, the TX4 does not vent well, as one tester discovered after a 50-mile trek on Washington's Cathedral Pass Loop.

Fit is a bit looser than other approach shoes on this list. A wide toe box lets the dogs breathe during long-haul approaches, though some testers felt the roomier forefoot made the TX4 a little sloppy while climbing. Buy here.

At less than a pound per foot, the featherlight Mission LT primes you for fast-moving days in the mountains. Unlike with other approach shoes in our test, Black Diamond slashes ounces in the upper of the Mission LT. In lieu of leather, the brand uses a tightly knitted, breathable (non-waterproof) mesh, which is wrapped with a rubber rand all the way around. The takeaway: fresher legs during long-haul adventures. "I still felt good at the end of my biggest days," says one tester who logged an 18-mile backpacking trip in California's Desolation Wilderness while wearing the Mission LT. Another plus of that mesh? When combined with the perforated foam ankle collar, it makes the Mission LT the most breathable option in this lineup—great for folks with sweaty tootsies.

A nylon rock plate bolsters the firm EVA midsole, adding support and protection underfoot, which minimizes foot fatigue when rock hopping. Grippy traction is a standout in scree fields, too. High-performance proprietary rubber and shallow, diamond-shaped lugs help you cling to dry rock and slabs. "I never questioned my footing, even on the most precarious rocks and angles," said one tester after a class 3 scramble along the 2-mile-long Pyramid-to-Price Traverse in California's Desolation Wilderness.

A sock-like bootie serves up a snug fit, but there's extra room in the toe box. Our testers praised it on longer approaches but conceded that the Mission LT isn't the most precise with tight moves on rock. Note: The Mission LT runs small so plan on sizing up at least a half size. Buy here.

If you're the friend at the trailhead who offers to haul that extra climbing rack, the Scarpa Crux approach shoes are for you thanks to a moderately stiff dual-density EVA midsole that pleased even the most discerning of the crew. "It's not painfully rigid like other approach shoes, but I still felt supported when shouldering monster loads to the crag," said one tester after a mixed day of climbing in Washington's Gifford Pinchot National Forest. The crux of the Crux: It's a board-lasted shoe, which means the upper is attached to a flexible board that sits on top of the midsole and adds stability. A burly suede upper also adds support—and weight. While the Crux isn't the heaviest shoe we tested, we still aren't likely to clip it to our harness.

Like with others in this guide, Scarpa opts for a Vibram® Megagrip outsole—one of the stickiest—making the Crux a worthy contender on dry slabs and moderate climbing routes. But the comfortable (and somewhat flexible) midsole means it's not well suited for technical terrain: "These don't edge like a climbing shoe, so I can't use them on any routes with micro pockets," says a Canada-based tester after a weekend in Ontario's Calabogie Crags.

Nice touch: The Crux fits well out of the box, an uncommon highlight for leather shoes. Credit the extra-padded tongue for the break-in-not-required. Still, the toe box isn't as wide as others in the test, and one tester reported heel slippage on steep terrain (but it was easily fixed with a thick sock). Buy women's and men's.

"I jammed, smeared and scrambled my way through a variety of terrain," says one Alaska-based tester of the Konseal AR approach shoes. For climbers looking to tackle technical approaches, these Arc'teryx kicks are a solid choice. The always-popular Vibram® Megagrip rubber outsole sticks to slabs and choss, while shallow lugs provide more surface contact than deeper tread. The result: full-contact, tacky traction that allowed one tester to confidently lead moderate climbing routes.

Arc'teryx typically opts for a tight fit, so testers were pleased to find some wiggle room in the toe box. However, those with narrow feet found the space excessive. "I felt sloppy on tiny ledges," says one climber. And, thanks to the beefy leather upper, the break-in period is substantial. It's a tradeoff, though: The burliness helped the Konseal AR score the best in our test for durability. On its own, the non-waterproof suede upper resists abrasion but Arc'teryx designers took durability to the next level. A TPU film wraps around the sides and the heel of the shoe while a 3D-molded toe cap protects the forefoot and eliminates the seam where delamination typically occurs. "I wore these heavy and they still look good enough to wear to work," said one tester after 75 days and nearly 250 miles in the Konseals. Trade-off: While the leather handles sharp rocks, it also invites sweaty feet in temps above 70°F. Buy here.

If you want a lot for a little, reach for the La Sportiva Boulder X. For the lowest price in our test, you get a durable, sticky, comfy approach shoe that's perfectly adequate at all things. Dubbed "sturdy and robust" by one tester, the Boulder X uses a beefy rubber rand to wrap and protect your feet, plus a fully leather upper. The Boulder X earns high praise for its unique lacing system (nicknamed the "Mythos"), which uses one long lace to pass around the ankle collar before continuing down the toe of the shoe for a precise and snug fit. "When you crank on these laces, it's like a bear hug for your foot," says one California-based tester. But fast-and-light they are not: The Boulder X tied for the heaviest boots in the bunch. Buy here.

Folks looking to push their approach shoes into backpacking duty should snag the Scarpa Zen Pro. "I've been borderline abusive to these shoes and they just won't quit," says one Alaska-based tester after nearly 200 days and 350 miles in the Zen Pro. The burly leather upper doubles as a fortress thanks to the polyurethane-injected reinforcements, and an EVA foam midsole and more flexible forefoot makes walking in the Zen Pros feel natural. It straddles the line between true approach shoes and low-cut hiking boots more than others on this list. But the Vibram® Spyder II rubber outsole struggled on technical smears, and the bulkier fit makes tight edges feel cramped. Buy here.